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GOZO
| At 67km² (16,549 acres) Gozo is the second
largest of the Maltese islands and has a population of about
25,000 people. Gozo differs from the island of Malta in that
it has successfully retained its rural atmosphere. The landscape
consists of flat-topped hills, steep valleys and rugged cliffs
and villas that nestle among peach, lemon, olive and orange
groves. In spring the island comes ablaze with the flowering
hibiscus, oleander, mimosa and bougainvillaea. |
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| Gozo has a distinct character all
its own. The countryside is prettier than that of its larger
neighbour, the pace is slower and there are far fewer tourists.
The island has its share of medieval architecture and prehistoric
temples, making it a great place to escape the tourism mill
while experiencing the best of what Malta has to offer. The
commercial centre of the island, Victoria, has a sleepy 17th-century
feel. Some of the local crafts (lace and knitwear) are sold
from the doorways of houses and on the street. The view from
atop the Citadel, or 'Gran Costello', takes in the entire island.
The Norman House, on the Citadel's grounds, houses an interesting
folk museum. |
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Gozo is held to be the island
of Ogy'gia in Homer's epic piece of Greek mythology, Odyssey,
where the sea nymph Calypso entertained Odysseus. You can
retrace the footsteps of Ulysses at Calypso's Cave, in the
cliffs overlooking Ramla Bay on the northeastern coast. Over
the centuries Gozo suffered a lot at the hands of marauding
Turkish and Arab pirates. Many of the inhabitants of the islands
were slain or abducted to be sold as slaves.Gozitans (as the
members of the island's population are known) are now again
watching carefully as Gozo is now starting to suffer from
modern day invaders as more holiday accommodation is slowly
built on their small piece of paradise. This will surely bring
prosperity, but will it mean the end of their simple, unhurried
way of life?
The waters surrounding the island are unpolluted and crystal
clear. The most important beaches are Il-Qawra (better known
as the inland sea, with a secluded pebbly bathing pool, crystal
clear water and sheer cliffs), an unspoilt sandy beach known
as Ir-Ramla l-Hamra and Xlendi Bay. In summer there are numerous
festivals with fireworks and horseracing in the streets.
The economy of this island is largely dependent on agriculture,
and it produces most of the agricultural goods consumed on
the island group. Its geography is characterised by serene
green valleys and hills dotted with pretty small villages.
The tranquil, rustic charm here leaves an impression on even
the most fleeting visitor.
VICTORIA
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Many people still prefer to refer to Victoria, the
capital city of Gozo, by its former name of Rabat. The
current name came into being in 1897 to mark the jubilee
of Queen Victoria of Great Britain. It was built by
the Arabs on Castle Hill, which offers the visitor panoramic
views of the whole island. It is not only the economic
and social heart of the island, it is also located geographically
in the centre of it. All roads lead to and from Victoria.
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It-Tokk (Main Square)
For hundreds of years this attractive looking square has
been the centre of Victoria's town life. There are stalls
here every day of the working week. Anything from fruit, fish,
fabrics, clothes and knitwear can be purchased here. There
are some interesting shops facing onto the square and the
bars serve the excellent Gozitan wine. The bronze statue of
Christ set in the square itself was erected as a memorial
to the local people who gave their lives in World War II,
both civilian and in uniform. Atmosphere-laden medieval alleyways,
with their bars and shops, can be explored directly behind
the square in the Old Town. Just on the square is the Church
of St James and the government offices, housed in the semi-circular
Banca Giuratale, which dates back to 1733 and was built by
Grand Master de Vilhena.
Triq Ir-Repubblika (Republic Street)
Horse trotting races are staged here on festa days. In fact
the street used to be called Racecourse Street. There are
some fine houses, featuring adorned hanging balconies, to
be seen in this part of Victoria. The Rundle Gardens park
is situated at the end of the street. An agricultural show
is held here on Assumption day (15th August) which draws very
large crowds.
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The Citadel (Gran Castello)
Towering above this beautiful medieval city is the Citadel.
It was refortified by the Knights and, due to the many Turkish
attacks on the island, up until 1637, Gozitans had to sleep
in the Citadel for safety. Nowadays, within its walls can
be found the cathedral, historic bastions and the remains
of old houses. One of these, the Norman House, has been restored
and is now a folk museum. There is also a cathedral museum
and a museum of archaeology here.
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The Cathedral, Cathedral Square
Designed by Lorenzo Gafá, this marvellous cathedral was
built between 1697 and 1711. An earlier church here had been destroyed
by the catastrophic 1693 earthquake. The original design called
for a magnificent dome, but because of a lack of funds, Italian
artist Antonio Manuele, was commissioned to paint the very convincing
trompe l'oeil 'domed' ceiling. The interior of the cathedral stands
in marked contrast to its exterior. Apart from the ceiling, the
cathedral's marble floor, which is made from the ornamental tombstones
of church dignitaries, gives it a surprisingly opulent feel. Designs
vary from a number of different hats to the grinning figure of Death.
The cathedral also houses a statue of the Madonna that is adorned
with a diamond necklace and a solid gold belt. The statue stands
on a base made of pure silver. This was the conventual church on
Gozo and twice served as the venue for the investiture of Grand
Masters.
Cathedral Museum, Fosse Street
This museum is situated just behind the Cathedral and is dedicated
to the history of the churches on the island. There are several
interesting exhibits to be seen, such as 1st century Ionic columns
and a large number of religious paintings, documents and vestments.
The horse-drawn carriage that was used on special occasions in the
19th century by the Bishop of Gozo can also be seen here.
Archaeological Museum Prison Street
Housed in the island's only surviving private palace, the Palazzo
Bondi, the Archaeological Museum has a wide variety of exhibits,
ranging from Roman earthenware, to the tombstone of a 12th century
Muslim girl called Majmuna. There is also a model of the Ggantija
temples and various artefacts excavated from them. The Museum of
Archaeology contains Roman remains from a shipwreck on the island
and items excavated from the neolithic temple at Ggantija.
St George's Basilica
Set just behind Gozo's main square (It-Tokk) and resplendent in
its own little square is the Basilica of St George. It is sometimes
referred to as the 'Golden Basilica' as the interior is wonderfully
gilded. A bronze canopy, reminiscent of Bernini's at St Peter's
in Rome, is the focal point of the interior here. The church was
built in 1673 but, like the cathedral, was damaged in the earthquake
that shook the islands two decades later.
The Natural History Museum, Quarters Street
This charming little collection resides in an old storehouse that
used to belong to the Knights. It has a small but interesting exhibition
on the fauna and flora of the island and exhibits of fossils and
fish.
Folklore Museum, Bernardo de Opuo Street
Here you'll find an insight into everyday Gozitan life over the
centuries. The museum is housed in three 16th century houses. The
architecture here is as interesting as the objects on exhibit.
Knight's Armoury, Quarters Street
Used by the knights in the 18th century, the armoury is now a modest
museum with exhibits of various historic weaponry. The site was
employed as a garrison for the British in the 19th century and again
during WWII.
XAGHRA
This large hilltop village lies about 3km (1,8 miles) north of
Victoria. Attractions here include the Church of our Lady of Victories
where, around the 8th of November, the end of the siege of Malta
is celebrated every year. This spot also offers a breathtaking view
of most of the island. There are alabaster caves at Xaghra, with
stalactites and stalagmites. These underground caves are known as
Xerri's Grotto and Ninu's Grotto. The major attraction at Xaghra
is the Ggantija Temples just outside the town.
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Ggantija Temples
The major attraction at Xaghra is the Ggantija Temples just
outside the town. Consisting of two temples, the South Temple
and the North Temple, this complex is the oldest known freestanding
stone building in the world, dating back to 3,600-3,000BC.
The exceptionally well preserved complex was constructed using
very heavy giant stone slabs. It is no wonder they were believed
to have been built by giants ('Ggantija' means 'giant'). The
legend that grew up over the site was that a female giant
transported the stone blocks on her head from Ta'Cenc. You
can see artefacts unearthed during the study of the site at
Victoria's Museum of Archaeology. |
THE DWEJRA COAST
This stretch of Goza's coastline, from Wardija Point to San
Dimitri Point on the west side of the island offers several
stunning attractions.
The Azure Window is a gigantic stone arch,
chiselled by the elements over thousands of years, that stretches
out into the sea. Like so many other natural wonders in the
world this arch is in danger of collapsing, so, get a photo
while you can! A few kilometres inland from this arch is the
Inland Sea, a small saltwater lake that is connected to the
ocean by a natural tunnel through the limestone cliffs.
The Fungus Rock, just offshore of the Azure
Window, was highly treasured by the Knights because of the
medicinal properties of the fungi growing on its steep sides.
They set up a guard around the rock to deter any thieves.
Anybody who was discovered trying to get to the treasured
fungi was executed. The plant was said to be a cure for haemorrhages
and dysentry. |
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TA' PINU BASILICA
This is one of the most visited sites on Gozo. Not only is
it a favorite tourist site, but many Maltese people come here
because of the spiritual significance of Ta'Pinu. It is situated
4km (2.5 miles) northwest of Victoria, Gozo's capital. In
183, a woman, Carmela Grima, heard voices telling her to say
three Ave Marias. Miraculous cures began happening around
the area, culminating in Gozo escaping the dreaded plague
that struck Malta. Thousands of visitors come to the shrine
yearly now, which is established as an official Vatican place
of pilgrimage. The original church here was an unassuming
16th century chapel. Following the miracles many devotions
and donations were offered to the church. With the money,
a new church was constructed, incorporating the chapel. Pope
Pius IX raised the new church to the status of a basilica
in 1932. |
XEWKIJA
Set just 3km (1,8 miles) southeast of Victoria, it is the fourth
largest town on the island. Towering above it, and visible from
anywhere on the island, is the giant dome of the Xewkija Rotunda.
Reportedly one of the largest in the world, it was constructed between
1951 and 1971. The building of this awesome spectacle has been a
bone of contention between Gozitans and Maltese for several years,
and will probably stay one until they can decide whether the Mosta
Dome or the Xewkija Rotunda is largest. Xewkija is a small town
with a beautiful new church, built round the old parish Church of
St John the Baptist.
XLENDI
Also just 3km (1,8 miles) from Victoria is Xlendli, but this
time heading in a westerly direction. The Xlendi Bay sits
at the bottom of a deep valley. It is becoming more and more
of a tourist destination due to its idyllic setting. Colourful
fishing boats lie moored in the bay and the local fishermen
can be observed preparing their traps and repairing their
nets during the day. The reefs and caves around the bay are
excellent for scuba diving and snorkeling. You'll find several
superb restaurants on the seafront offering local fish and
giant prawn menus. Also look out for the fantastic hand-made
lace sold here at reasonable prices. If you don't feel like
driving catch the number 87 bus from Victoria. If you do take
the car there is a good size parking lot near the beach. |
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MARSALFORN
Marsalforn is a fishing village on the north coast which
has become one of Gozo's most popular seaside resorts. It
has a perfect view of the colossal statue of Jesus on top
of a towering dormant volcanoe, reminiscent of Rio de Janeiro.
The picture on the left shows the farthest point of the bay,
known as il-Qbajjar, with several salt pans. |
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