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SOUTHERN MALTA

This section of the country stretches from Zabbar to Zurrieq and its geography is one of contrasts. The coastline has many scenic bays and inlets. As you move from the coast inland, the area gradually changes from rocky cliffs to agricultural land. Although the region receives most of its income from tourism, there are still a few tranquil coastal towns where the inhabitants make a living from fishing. Largely unchanged by the flood of travellers that visit each year, Southern Malta is an ideal part of the islands to experience traditional, rural Maltese life. Marsaxlokk, Birzebbugia and Marsacala are typical Maltese fishing communities, sprawled along the coves and inlets at the southernmost tip of Malta. Fishing nets and colourfully painted boats crowd the waterfronts, and each day's fresh catch can be eaten at the family-run tavernas.

This region has a large number of interesting geographical attractions, especially along its coastline, as well as several important historical sites. Those interested in working on their suntan will have ample opportunity on the superb beaches you'll encounter. There are plenty of opportunities to enjoy water sports such as diving, fishing and snorkelling.

ZURRIEQ

This large village with over 9000 inhabitants is one of the oldest in Malta, possessing a rich history dating from ancient prehistory. Mattia Pretti, the famous artist, lived here in 1675 and some of his work hangs in the Parish Church dedicated to St Catherine of Alexandria. The Armeria Palace with its watch-tower towards the rear was constructed by the Knights and utilised as an armory. It also temporarily hosted Napoleon Bonaparte when the French invaded Malta. The Malta Conservation Society has restored the Church of the Annunciation situated in the abandoned settlement of Hal Millieri. It is a medieval church with some fine murals. Fantastic fireworks displays, elaborate outdoor decorations and very dedicated festa fans mark the two Zurrieq summer festas, which compete against each other for grandest and best. The celebrations go on for days on end. (See village festas)

The Blue Grotto

On the southwest shore on the outskirts of Zurrieq is the Blue Grotto where, legend reports, sirens bewitched seafarers with their songs. Four caves reflect the brilliant colours of the corals and minerals in the limestone.

The most spectacular is the Blue Grotto itself, which is best viewed in the early morning with a calm sea when the sun is still low enough to penetrate its interior. This trip along the magnificent cliffs on the south coast is a must if you're visiting Malta. The boats that ferry passengers to the Blue Grotto leave from the small fishing village of Wied iz-Zurrieq. They are traditional fishing boats and run daily if the conditions for sailing are calm.  
The grotto is a stunning design of the elements of nature. The boat passes under an arch hammered out of the cliff over millions of years into a dark grotto which cuts 45m (27 feet) into the cliffside. The grotto got its name from the deep blue colour of the water within it which also produces a spectrum of brilliant reflections in the water which also reflects onto the rocky walls of the grotto.

Hagar Qim and Mnajdra Temples

Occupying a breathtaking site overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, these temple complexes, between Zurrieq and Siggiewi, belong to the Tarxien phases of around 3000-2500 BC. Hagar Qim, which means 'Standing Stones', was constructed from enormous limestone slabs, some of which are as high as 7m (23 feet).

Unfortunately there has been considerable erosion on the seaward side of the monument but it is still hugely impressive nonetheless. It was here that the famous 'Venus of Malta' was found. Only a few hundred metres away, the Mnajdra Temples are closer to the sea. The coralline limestone from which the outer wall of the Mnajdra is made is harder than that of the Hagar Qim's globigerina limestone and is thus less eroded than Hagar Qim. Besides serving as holy places, these structures are also timepieces - they mark the equinoxes by means of elaborate optical phenomena, with rays of light passing through holes and doorways and landing on exact spots on the altar on the specific days, a sight very popular with archeologists and tourists alike.

ZABBAR

Zabbar is an old farming town which commenced its prosperous path with the building of its large parish church back in the 17th century. Among Zabbar's attractions is the Our Lady of Grace church, which was designed by the renowned architect Tommaso Dingli. The church has quite a history, having been damaged by French fire from the Cottonera Lines in 1800 when the French were trying to root out Maltese insurgents that based themselves in this town whilst preparing to attack Valletta and the Three Cities. A building on the outskirts of Zabbar still bears evidence of the fighting: a cannon ball embedded in its walls. Adjoining the church, is the Sanctuary Museum which houses a collection that has been wholly donated by people who survived various disasters at sea. The town sustained an unfortunate tragedy in the 1970s when a British Vulcan military jet crashed into the village, causing a lot of damage, but only one death. Parts of the Vulcan are exhibited in the museum. Another highlight in the town is the Zabbar Gate, which connects the town with the Three Cities. This massive sandstone gate, the finest of those along the Cotonera Lines, proudly displays a bust of Grand Master Nicolas Cottoner set in an ornamental niche near the top.

ZEJTUN

The name of this ancient village is taken from the name 'zejt' which means oil. One of the earlier industries here was pressing olives for oil, although there are no olive trees around any more. The wonderful Church of Saint Catherine dominates the village and was built by Lorenzo Gafá in 1692The 'Cross In The Village Square' (Is-Salib Tal-Pjazza) is situated at the entrance of the village's main square in front of St Catherine's. It was captured by Zejtun militia from the French garrison in the town of Birgu during the French siege of 1800. The eclectically-styled Church of St Gregory was built in 1436 and gradually extended by the Knights.

Limestone Quarries

It is worth stopping by one of the limestone quarries on the outskirts of Zurrieq. Maltese houses are built using these larger-sized stones, hewn out of rock. They impart a yellowish-white sandy look to houses, which when left unpainted, impart a polished but rustic look.

Xarolla Windmill

This is one of a few remaining in Malta, relics from the time when flour was ground using natural forces. This windmill has been painstakingly renovated using the original materials, such that the inside, with the revolving grinding stones is as intriguing as the outside. The windmill is open for viewing, and also serves as the offices for the Zurrieq local council as well as an exhibition gallery.

MARSAXLOKK

Situated on the coast about 9 km (5.6 miles) south of Valletta, Marsaxlokk is the largest fishing village on the island. The name derives from the Arabic marsa meaning 'harbour' and xlokk, the local name for the hot, dry wind that blows in from the Sahara desert. The bay here has been subject to a number of invasion fleets throughout history. In 1798, Napoleon and his army managed to land here and ultimately bring the dominion of Malta by the Knights of St John to an end. Another important historical event was the Gorbachev-Bush summit in 1989 which effectively witnessed the end of the Cold War. The summit took place on a warship moored in Marsaxlokk Bay on a very rough sea, causing it to be dubbed the 'Seasick Summit'.

 

Traditional 'luzzu' fishing boats bob around in the bright blue water, attesting to the fact that the community here still rely on the sea for its upkeep. The 'luzzu' is a common sight in these parts and there is an interesting background to their brightly decorated appearance. On either side of the prow are painted the eye of the pagan god Osiris to ward off the devil and give protection to these small vessels. The tradition stretches back centuries for the ancient Maltese were pretty superstitious. For instance, many of the churches here have two clocks on their belfries: one representing the correct time, the other to confuse the devil and ward him off his evil ways. Similarly, you'll find that many country houses and farms have bulls' horns, next to a holy image, on the roofs to befuddle Beelzebub.

The hot summer months bring many tourists to Marsaxlokk. They come for the authentic seaside atmosphere, to see fishermen coming in with their daily catches or just mending their nets on the quay. They come for the tranquil walks along the graceful promenade, or simply to savour the great seaside restaurants with their traditional Maltese fare. However, despite this annual influx, Marsaxlokk still manages to retain its distinct fishing village atmosphere. Here you'll also discover handcraft markets selling everything from lace to local dishes.

The Temple of Juno at Tas-Silg

At Tas-Silg, on the outskirts of Marsaxlokk is the recently discovered Temple of Juno which was originally used by the Greeks as a place of worship to the goddess of fertility. This temple was widely revered by the seafarers of the ancient world. It housed a pair of ivory tusks, presents to the gods, that were stolen by a Roman general named Cassius Verres, but after a heated debate at the ancient senate of the Roman Empire, they were promptly returned.

BIRZEBBUGA

Just 1km (0,6 miles) further south of Marsaxlokk is the town of Birzebbuga. The beach at Pretty Bay is sandy and, even with the proximity of the Malta Freeport, popular with the sunlovers. Birzebbuga however, is best known for the fascinating Ghar Dalam cave. The 'Cave of Darkness', as it is also called, was discovered in 1865 and is important because of the large number of fossils it contains. Fossilised bones from extinct species were discovered in the cave including: dwarf hippopotami, dwarf elephants, red deer and giant swans. Inside, on the cave bed, visitors can still see evidence of bone deposits. Several types of fossils as well as models reconstructed from them are exhibited in the cave's small museum. Excavations of Ghar Dalam support the hypothesis that Europe was joined to Africa in prehistoric times, which in time submerged through the action of tectonic shifts. Indeed, Malta is the remaining summit of such a submerged connection.

TARXIEN

Set near the southern end of the Great Harbour, Tarxien is a small village within close proximity of the larger town, Paola, known in Maltese as Rahal Gdid, meaning "new town". It bears the name of the Grandmaster who built it, Paola. Tarxien possesses two major attractions: the Hal Saflieni Hypogeum and the Tarxien Temples, located only a few hundred metres away from the Hypogeum. .

Within close proximity to Paola are the archaeological sites of Tarxien, with its neolithic temple; Hypogeum, a complex of ancient underground burial chambers on three levels dating back 3000 years; and Ghar Dalam (Dark Cave) where the remains of now extinct birds and animals such as dwarf hippos and elephants have been found.

Tarxien Temples

Three of the complex's four temples (South Temple, Middle Temple and East Temple) are still in good condition. Their walls and columns are heavily decorated with carvings of fertility and virility symbols. When these temples were excavated in 1915, they yielded the largest cache of prehistoric art ever recovered on the island. Most of the pieces are now also preserved in the Archaeology Museum in Valletta.

The Hypogeum

The Hypogeum is a series of underground chambers that were discovered in 1902. Exactly what function these chambers served is uncertain, but the discovery of nearly 7,000 bodies in one of them has given rise to the theory that it was a burial site and sanctuary. The Archaeological Museum in Valletta exhibits a model of the Hypogeum and a collection of the potteries and statues that were discovered here.

The Hypogeum consists of three levels, one leading into the other by means of a spiral stone staircase. It was here that the statue of the Sleeping Priestess was found. It is dimly lit and claustrophobic down here but fascinating nonetheless, with the carved walls and intricate ceilings preserved, giving us an idea of how the temples above must have once looked. The 'Holy of Holies' Oracle Chamber on the second level is notable for its weird acoustics. It has a niche from which, interestingly enough, only (deep) male voices seem to be able to be projected to the far end of the chamber. Female voices seem not have any effect.