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SOUTHERN MALTA
This section of the country stretches from Zabbar to Zurrieq and
its geography is one of contrasts. The coastline has many scenic
bays and inlets. As you move from the coast inland, the area gradually
changes from rocky cliffs to agricultural land. Although the region
receives most of its income from tourism, there are still a few
tranquil coastal towns where the inhabitants make a living from
fishing. Largely unchanged by the flood of travellers that visit
each year, Southern Malta is an ideal part of the islands to experience
traditional, rural Maltese life. Marsaxlokk, Birzebbugia and Marsacala
are typical Maltese fishing communities, sprawled along the coves
and inlets at the southernmost tip of Malta. Fishing nets and colourfully
painted boats crowd the waterfronts, and each day's fresh catch
can be eaten at the family-run tavernas.
| This region has a large number of
interesting geographical attractions, especially along its coastline,
as well as several important historical sites. Those interested
in working on their suntan will have ample opportunity on the
superb beaches you'll encounter. There are plenty of opportunities
to enjoy water sports such as diving, fishing and snorkelling.
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ZURRIEQ
This large village with over 9000 inhabitants is one of the oldest
in Malta, possessing a rich history dating from ancient prehistory.
Mattia Pretti, the famous artist, lived here in 1675 and some of
his work hangs in the Parish Church dedicated to St Catherine of
Alexandria. The Armeria Palace with its watch-tower towards the
rear was constructed by the Knights and utilised as an armory. It
also temporarily hosted Napoleon Bonaparte when the French invaded
Malta. The Malta Conservation Society has restored the Church of
the Annunciation situated in the abandoned settlement of Hal Millieri.
It is a medieval church with some fine murals. Fantastic fireworks
displays, elaborate outdoor decorations and very dedicated festa
fans mark the two Zurrieq summer festas, which compete against each
other for grandest and best. The celebrations go on for days on
end. (See
village festas)
The Blue Grotto
On the southwest shore on the outskirts of Zurrieq is the Blue
Grotto where, legend reports, sirens bewitched seafarers with their
songs. Four caves reflect the brilliant colours of the corals and
minerals in the limestone.
| The most spectacular is the Blue Grotto itself,
which is best viewed in the early morning with a calm sea when
the sun is still low enough to penetrate its interior. This
trip along the magnificent cliffs on the south coast is a must
if you're visiting Malta. The boats that ferry passengers to
the Blue Grotto leave from the small fishing village of Wied
iz-Zurrieq. They are traditional fishing boats and run daily
if the conditions for sailing are calm. |
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The grotto is a stunning design of the elements of nature. The boat
passes under an arch hammered out of the cliff over millions of years
into a dark grotto which cuts 45m (27 feet) into the cliffside. The
grotto got its name from the deep blue colour of the water within
it which also produces a spectrum of brilliant reflections in the
water which also reflects onto the rocky walls of the grotto.
Hagar Qim and Mnajdra Temples
Occupying a breathtaking site overlooking the Mediterranean Sea,
these temple complexes, between Zurrieq and Siggiewi, belong to
the Tarxien phases of around 3000-2500 BC. Hagar Qim, which means
'Standing Stones', was constructed from enormous limestone slabs,
some of which are as high as 7m (23 feet).
| Unfortunately there has been considerable erosion on
the seaward side of the monument but it is still hugely impressive
nonetheless. It was here that the famous 'Venus of Malta'
was found. Only a few hundred metres away, the Mnajdra Temples
are closer to the sea. The coralline limestone from which
the outer wall of the Mnajdra is made is harder than that
of the Hagar Qim's globigerina limestone and is thus less
eroded than Hagar Qim. Besides serving as holy places, these
structures are also timepieces - they mark the equinoxes by
means of elaborate optical phenomena, with rays of light passing
through holes and doorways and landing on exact spots on the
altar on the specific days, a sight very popular with archeologists
and tourists alike.
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ZABBAR
Zabbar is an old farming town which commenced its prosperous
path with the building of its large parish church back in
the 17th century. Among Zabbar's attractions is the Our Lady
of Grace church, which was designed by the renowned architect
Tommaso Dingli. The church has quite a history, having been
damaged by French fire from the Cottonera Lines in 1800 when
the French were trying to root out Maltese insurgents that
based themselves in this town whilst preparing to attack Valletta
and the Three Cities. A building on the outskirts of Zabbar
still bears evidence of the fighting: a cannon ball embedded
in its walls. Adjoining the church, is the Sanctuary Museum
which houses a collection that has been wholly donated by
people who survived various disasters at sea. The town sustained
an unfortunate tragedy in the 1970s when a British Vulcan
military jet crashed into the village, causing a lot of damage,
but only one death. Parts of the Vulcan are exhibited in the
museum. Another highlight in the town is the Zabbar Gate,
which connects the town with the Three Cities. This massive
sandstone gate, the finest of those along the Cotonera Lines,
proudly displays a bust of Grand Master Nicolas Cottoner set
in an ornamental niche near the top.
ZEJTUN
The name of this ancient village is taken from the name 'zejt'
which means oil. One of the earlier industries here was pressing
olives for oil, although there are no olive trees around any
more. The wonderful Church of Saint Catherine dominates the
village and was built by Lorenzo Gafá in 1692The 'Cross
In The Village Square' (Is-Salib Tal-Pjazza) is situated
at the entrance of the village's main square in front of St
Catherine's. It was captured by Zejtun militia from the French
garrison in the town of Birgu during the French siege of 1800.
The eclectically-styled Church of St Gregory was built in
1436 and gradually extended by the Knights.
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Limestone Quarries
It is worth stopping by one of the limestone quarries on
the outskirts of Zurrieq. Maltese houses are built using these
larger-sized stones, hewn out of rock. They impart a yellowish-white
sandy look to houses, which when left unpainted, impart a
polished but rustic look. |
Xarolla Windmill
This is one of a few remaining in Malta, relics from the
time when flour was ground using natural forces. This windmill
has been painstakingly renovated using the original materials,
such that the inside, with the revolving grinding stones is
as intriguing as the outside. The windmill is open for viewing,
and also serves as the offices for the Zurrieq local council
as well as an exhibition gallery. |

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MARSAXLOKK
Situated on the coast about 9 km (5.6 miles) south of Valletta,
Marsaxlokk is the largest fishing village on the island. The name
derives from the Arabic marsa meaning 'harbour' and xlokk,
the local name for the hot, dry wind that blows in from the Sahara
desert. The bay here has been subject to a number of invasion fleets
throughout history. In 1798, Napoleon and his army managed to land
here and ultimately bring the dominion of Malta by the Knights of
St John to an end. Another important historical event was the Gorbachev-Bush
summit in 1989 which effectively witnessed the end of the Cold War.
The summit took place on a warship moored in Marsaxlokk Bay on a
very rough sea, causing it to be dubbed the 'Seasick Summit'.
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Traditional 'luzzu' fishing boats bob around in the bright
blue water, attesting to the fact that the community here
still rely on the sea for its upkeep. The 'luzzu' is a common
sight in these parts and there is an interesting background
to their brightly decorated appearance. On either side of
the prow are painted the eye of the pagan god Osiris to ward
off the devil and give protection to these small vessels.
The tradition stretches back centuries for the ancient Maltese
were pretty superstitious. For instance, many of the churches
here have two clocks on their belfries: one representing the
correct time, the other to confuse the devil and ward him
off his evil ways. Similarly, you'll find that many country
houses and farms have bulls' horns, next to a holy image,
on the roofs to befuddle Beelzebub. |
| The hot summer months bring many tourists to Marsaxlokk. They
come for the authentic seaside atmosphere, to see fishermen
coming in with their daily catches or just mending their nets
on the quay. They come for the tranquil walks along the graceful
promenade, or simply to savour the great seaside restaurants
with their traditional Maltese fare. However, despite this annual
influx, Marsaxlokk still manages to retain its distinct fishing
village atmosphere. Here you'll also discover handcraft markets
selling everything from lace to local dishes. |
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The Temple of Juno at Tas-Silg
At Tas-Silg, on the outskirts of Marsaxlokk is the recently discovered
Temple of Juno which was originally used by the Greeks as a place
of worship to the goddess of fertility. This temple was widely revered
by the seafarers of the ancient world. It housed a pair of ivory
tusks, presents to the gods, that were stolen by a Roman general
named Cassius Verres, but after a heated debate at the ancient senate
of the Roman Empire, they were promptly returned.
BIRZEBBUGA
Just 1km (0,6 miles) further south of Marsaxlokk is the town of
Birzebbuga. The beach at Pretty Bay is sandy and, even with the
proximity of the Malta Freeport, popular with the sunlovers. Birzebbuga
however, is best known for the fascinating Ghar Dalam cave.
The 'Cave of Darkness', as it is also called, was discovered in
1865 and is important because of the large number of fossils it
contains. Fossilised bones from extinct species were discovered
in the cave including: dwarf hippopotami, dwarf elephants, red deer
and giant swans. Inside, on the cave bed, visitors can still see
evidence of bone deposits. Several types of fossils as well as models
reconstructed from them are exhibited in the cave's small museum.
Excavations of Ghar Dalam support the hypothesis that Europe was
joined to Africa in prehistoric times, which in time submerged through
the action of tectonic shifts. Indeed, Malta is the remaining summit
of such a submerged connection.
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TARXIEN
Set near the southern end of the Great Harbour, Tarxien is
a small village within close proximity of the larger town,
Paola, known in Maltese as Rahal Gdid, meaning "new
town". It bears the name of the Grandmaster who built
it, Paola. Tarxien possesses two major attractions: the Hal
Saflieni Hypogeum and the Tarxien Temples, located only
a few hundred metres away from the Hypogeum. .
Within close proximity to Paola are the archaeological sites
of Tarxien, with its neolithic temple; Hypogeum, a complex
of ancient underground burial chambers on three levels dating
back 3000 years; and Ghar Dalam (Dark Cave) where the remains
of now extinct birds and animals such as dwarf hippos and
elephants have been found. |
Tarxien Temples
Three of the complex's four temples (South Temple, Middle
Temple and East Temple) are still in good condition. Their
walls and columns are heavily decorated with carvings of fertility
and virility symbols. When these temples were excavated in
1915, they yielded the largest cache of prehistoric art ever
recovered on the island. Most of the pieces are now also preserved
in the Archaeology Museum in Valletta. |
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The Hypogeum
The Hypogeum is a series of underground chambers that were discovered
in 1902. Exactly what function these chambers served is uncertain,
but the discovery of nearly 7,000 bodies in one of them has given
rise to the theory that it was a burial site and sanctuary. The
Archaeological Museum in Valletta exhibits a model of the Hypogeum
and a collection of the potteries and statues that were discovered
here.
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The Hypogeum consists of three levels, one leading into
the other by means of a spiral stone staircase. It was here
that the statue of the Sleeping Priestess was found. It is
dimly lit and claustrophobic down here but fascinating nonetheless,
with the carved walls and intricate ceilings preserved, giving
us an idea of how the temples above must have once looked.
The 'Holy of Holies' Oracle Chamber on the second level is
notable for its weird acoustics. It has a niche from which,
interestingly enough, only (deep) male voices seem to be able
to be projected to the far end of the chamber. Female voices
seem not have any effect.
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